ON THE WRIST: Nomos Metro 39 Silvercut
MONDAY AUGUST 8, 2022
The Metro is what encompasses the Nomos philosophy, we here at the CWO have always looked up to this manufacturer for being a newcomer to the industry and taking on the giants. I specifically chose a 39mm model as this size will appeal to more people and the Silvercut version just to spice things up. This is likely to pan out to be an exciting day as I’ve always admired German engineering and been wanting to do a full review on a Nomos watch.
PRO
Legibility
Wrist comfort
Finishing on movement
CON
Rotor wind sound
SPECIFICATION
38.5 mm Diameter
8.4 mm Thickness
43 hours Power Reserve
50m Water Resistance
45.5 mm Lug to Lug
A$ 5,950
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If you are into industrial design, it is likely for you to admire the Metro because it is after all designed by Mark Braun (nothing to do with the company that sells shavers). Unlike any other watch, the Metro has a very thin bezel which makes it appear larger than the specified diameter. The wire lug style is something rather uncommon where the only other watch to my knowledge that uses this is on some Panerai Radiomir. It is usually a bit of a pain when it comes to strap changing but with the quick release on this one, it isn’t an issue.
Even though this is recommended for a wrist size of 18.5 cm, it sits absolutely fine on my 15 cm wrist. Also being 8.4 cm tall, this will fit wrists that’s both smaller and larger than mine. All day wrist comfort is guaranteed as this Metro only weighs 50 grams. The Silvercut dial does not reflect much light hence giving off a more muted appearance. This certainly is an interesting use of material however keep in mind that it looks a little darker in person.
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At this price point, the finishing on the DUW 3001 movement punches well above its weight. Much like a Grand Seiko, these watches have to be admired in person. The Nomos has a larger sapphire crystal so the owner can have an even better look at its heart. During its time here, it keeps time pretty much spot on every 24 hours which makes it the most accurate watch that has ever come through our doors.
" The original Metro reference 1101 was pretty much perfect but
the masses wanted something larger, something more conventional looking and Nomos listened. "
The issue is that dress watches are even less popular than they were 10 years ago. As seen on the Cellini, no matter what Rolex throws its way people still aren’t buying. Nomos addressed that issue with the Club Sport which is a commendable first attempt though it takes time for people to even notice its existence.
That aside, being a relatively small company, Nomos simply doesn’t have the budget to endorse expensive celebrities which drives hype. When I got into this hobby, you can get discounts for an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Today, you got to please and beg for a Code 11:59 because someone’s appeared on TV with one.
None of those elements matter because there’s nothing really that goes against this Nomos. The Metro 39 gives everything that a watch needs and leaves out the unnecessary. There are minor annoyances such as giving out a not so pleasant sound when the rotor winds. On top of that, the beating of this movement is very much audible. Both the Aquanaut and the Nautilus share these characteristics, the ticking I don’t mind nevertheless the winding can be improved.
You may argue that one of these isn’t cheap or no one would notice that you have spent A$ 6000 on a watch. If you are one of those people, this is not for you. I'm not saying someone would wake up one day wanting a Nomos but if you’ve come this far being somewhat interested in a watch like this one, you aren't into that kind of lifestyle. You appreciate a watch that flies under the radar and above all you want something meaningful to the owner.
I will not say who’s got better taste for wearing a watch over another because anyone can still have a watch like this even though they already have many other watches. Nomos is doing its own thing and I’ve actually come to like it more than anticipated because its execution is just so effectively done. That may not sound all that exciting, spend some time with one and it will win you over.